Unless you have had a arrangement like this previously in a home you won’t believe just what a vast change it is able to generate to the appearance of your house at night.

A low voltage landscape light system is perfectly simple to put in and look after that you wouldn’t credit how singular all are going to appear in your garden once it is lit up.

You could go for spread lights that will light up an area of patch in general and not pinpoint any precise part.

In several ways it might seem resembling a community garden or recreational area where illumination makes it feasible to stroll daytime or night, evidently smaller but just as nice-looking.

The helpful thing about low voltage systems is that the current, i.e. 12V, is small enough to be very secure. It is so harmless that you could probably have the lights on whenever you are positioning them to greatest effect. There is no hazard to you.

One negative aspect I would be keen to bring up is that the illumination farthest away from the electrical device might never seem as brilliant as those nearest.

As a planting season September is second only to April and May; and now that cooler weather has arrived, you will doubtless be raring to go.

Corms of autumn-blooming crocus and colchicums should be planted as soon as they become available. Two or three weeks after they are planted, they may bloom. Winter aconite tubers and snowdrop and narcissus bulbs should also be planted when received, for they deteriorate if they are kept out of

This is the best time to divide peony clumps and Japanese and Siberian irises. The soil is warm now and consequently favorable to root development, so that the plants will become established before the onset of winter.

Biennials also can be transplanted either to a coldframe or to the spot where they are to bloom. Whether they will need the protection of a coldframe depends upon their hardiness in your area.

Although spring planting is usually preferred for broad-leaved evergreens such as mountain-laurel and rhododendron and cone-bearing or narrow-leaved evergreens such as pine, spruce and fir, their new growth has now hardened sufficiently to permit transplanting them without much injury. However, in areas where these evergreens are just barely hardy, it would be wiser to postpone transplanting them until spring.

Southern gardeners are still on the alert for evidences of cold damage to shrubs… injuries that resulted from severe November and February freezes. Most of the injured wood has now been cut back to live wood but we must still be on the lookout for progressive dieback from the decomposition of partly frozen cambium layers.

Most of us now realize that the damage was not as severe as we had anticipated. The pruned-back shrubs are now developing strong, new growth which will soon fill in the gaps. Lawns are well under way, full of lush green growth resulting from spring rains and warm weather. Everywhere the new spring growth brings, once more, the urge to work in the soil with the same old zest we have had in the past.

One very noticeable good deed our cold winter has done is giving us greatly improved growth of spring flowering bulbs. Tulips, hyacinths, daffodils, lilies and myriads of others are now showing remarkably fine blooms on long stems.

Slow on the Cut Back

Annuals

February plantings of larkspur, sweet peas, stock, cornflower and poppies will give good results. Throughout most of this region pansy plants can be transplanted during February and will give color until mid-June. As soon as they are established, mulch with two inches of well-rotted compost or feed with a balanced fertilizer and mulch with a material to prevent undue drying out.

Spring Bulbs

These happy harbingers of spring begin popping through the soil and some of the early ones may flower during the latter part of the month. Keep the soil where these are developing clear of debris, especially winter mulches that have not decayed, and apply lightly a fungicide to prevent disease damage.

Light feeding with liquid food and heavy watering will increase the length of stem and quality of bloom.

Lawns

Top-dressings of lawns or any similar garden planning tasks may be started in the lower part of this region and continued throughout the region next month. This top-dressing design is to correct uneven areas and washes that may have occurred during the winter. Mow the grass short in order to work the soil or compost well into the stolons of the grass.

Blow Wind Blow and go garden go! Wind always creates problems in the garden but in March in the South the problem becomes acute. All gardeners know of the damage that results from plants whipping back and forth, being bruised or crushed against each other, the cutting action of the fine soil, and the silting action of the blowing dust. All these are bad. enough, but the real damage comes from the drying action of the winds the dehydration of plant tissues.

In this area there has been more, moisture during the last year than for, any previous season. For this reason many gardeners will neglect to supply needed moisture to the top soil, the layer in which feeder roots of plants are present. Many gardeners rely on winter mulches to prevent excessive drying of the top soil, and rightly so! But in at least half of our area even the mulch material is blown away, therefore surface watering becomes absolutely necessary.

The easiest method to water the garden at any time is by a permanent sprinkler system. More and more of these are being installed each year by gardeners.