Spring Flowering Bulbs

The last of the late flowering bulbs made their exit in May. Many inexperienced gardeners remove the yellowing or unsightly foliage. The bulbs from which these plants grow are specialized organs that store the food manufactured by the leaves. If the foliage is removed this important function is lost. Not only is this food important to next years flower production, but without it the exhausted bulb cannot produce new bulbs through division.

Foliage should be left on the plants until it dries up of its own accord. Even after flowers are through, watering is essential if the bulbs are to cure properly.

Plant Labels

In this day of plant specialization the identification of plants is very important. There are many different kinds of labels available. The label should be as permanent as possible and be lettered lightly. The method of attachment should be such that there can be no mistake as to what plant is meant. Information other than just names may be put on the labels. For instance in labeling roses it would be wise to indicate the color class (dark red, red blend, etc.). This helps immeasurably when hurriedly cutting for a show as it will save a great deal of time getting the specimens entered. If you visit other gardens to observe new varieties being tested, the labels will prove invaluable. In this gardening world today practically no one is interested in plants unless they know the name of the variety. There is no time like the present to begin labeling the plants in your garden.

Roses, Lilies, delphiniums and many other perennials are at the peak of the blossoming performance in the North, and the weather is wonderful. It is easy to be lazy and leisurely enjoy the garden and the out of doors. A provident planter has plenty of time for this; there are few things that demand immediate attention, time and effort. Only the weeds that prosper along with other plants are a problem, and a minor one too, because shallow cultivation will cut them down before they get big and deep rooted.

Cultivating is in order even though weeds may not be a problem because the soil becomes compacted by the frequent, often heavy rains that occur at this time of year. When the soil surface becomes compacted it is undesirable in many ways. Water cannot percolate freely through it and much of it is lost by run-off.

Soil air is excluded or greatly reduced especially when wet; harmful soil micro-organisms (algae, etc.) thrive; the helpful soil bacteria perish. All of these unfavorable conditions and factors can be corrected quickly by shallow cultivation. A small two or three tined hand cultivator is just the right tool for this kind of job. It should not be used when the soil is on the wet side, but rather when it is beginning to show signs of becoming dry at the surface. If the soil is too moist the cultivator will cause it to gum and ball.

If you walked into your yard, stepped on a patch of grass and felt your feet sink down a little, know that it may not be because it’s muddy and wet outside. It may be because the ground isn’t as solid as it used to be. Look around for small hills or mountains spread around your yard. You might think of them as tunnels, with openings to the upper ground. Before you go screaming into the night, and think that this is some kind of a conspiracy to do in your yard, those spots that appear all over your grass with brown spots and parts of it dying, may be a sign that you have moles or gophers.

These annoying little vermin can totally demolish your yard. It has nothing to do with the care that you give your lawn; moles and gophers don’t just move in on people who let their yards go. It can happen with any yard, anywhere; and while that may sound somewhat overwhelming realize that you’re not in this alone. There are millions of yards around the world that are affected by these rodents every day. They can do damage in excess of what most people think is rational, and at other times, you barely know that they’re there. Believe it or not, there’s no rhyme or reason to why they move in or not and that knowledge might be extremely distressing.

The best pest management and pest control method and the single most effective way to battle parasites and pests is proper education and good knowledge. When this is established in each community, each house and each individual, then there is no parasite which can escape their terrible destiny. Armed with correct thoughts, an individual can then formulate various, however also effective programs to eliminate from the parasites and vermin.

Preferred programs usually consist of various mechanical, biological and natural means of control. The usual course of action is the following: A level of action is determined in an area. The amount of damage to both the pests and other living things present in the area are assessed and they vary from place to place, taking into consideration the environmental issues and well-being of the people living near or within the area.

Pests present in the area are monitored and identified. Once the level of action is established, the kind and species of animal or animals to be eradicated are evaluated. The colonies and sources of infestation can also be found out through this monitoring action. Traps are set up and regular inspections are done.

Killer bees, also known as Africanized Honey Bees were first identified in 2002. They are now well established in South Florida and several other areas of the state. While these bees are less predictable and a bit more dangerous than European bees, they don’t deserve the title “killer bees.” But for their own safety, Florida residents will need to gain an understanding of African honey bees.

African bees are known for being extremely protective of their nests. Killer bees are more easily provoked than European honeybees. They defend a larger area around their nest. Africanized bees swarm to the defense in much greater numbers, and they chase perceived intruders much greater distances. This combination of traits can easily surprise unwary people and animals with deadly results.

Can you visually tell a killer bee from a European bee? No. The two types are so similar that even bee experts can’t tell the difference. Both have black stripes around their abdomen and fuzzy bodies. The only way to distinguish between them is to do a genetic analysis or do a host of body measurements. Avoiding all bees is the safest way to avoid Africanized bees.